Sisyphus

Our host is constructing a pond in his organic garden. I have no experience in pond construction, but when your host asks for help, you oblige him or her. All Billy and I had to do was help the other workers move stones into the ditch. I’ve moved stones before, how much harder could this …

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Last Smoothie of the Night: Goodbye Thailand

Billy. Remember landing here in Thailand? Remember being driven to the Airbnb through what looked like dilapidated streets where stray dogs roamed free?  Elliott. I remember. I remember thinking that we were really in for it. Billy. Look at us now though: walking down the street at night sipping smoothies, feeling completely at ease. This …

Foreigner Anxiety

Conversation overheard at a bar. I didn’t catch the names, so I’ve just made them up. Harold. Is this your first time in Chiang Mai?  Caroline. No. This would be my fourth time visiting here. May as well move here right?  Harold. I guess so. This is my first time in Chiang Mai. Caroline. How …

Clothes

I do laundry here about once a week. I only have a few articles of clothing, so once a week is enough. Mostly we rely on the old smell test to know when we should do a load of laundry. Other than that, clothes haven’t been an issue for either of us, a fact which …

Coin Toss

Never in my life have I been to so many restaurants in such a short span of time. We’ve eaten out every night here, usually trying a new place or sticking with a favorite (Kanjana’s). Most of the time we’re able to narrow our choice down to just two options, so we do a coin …

Crossing the Street

The pedestrian crossing lines on the streets of Chiang Mai are mostly decorative. The steady stream of red trucks, tuk-tuks, and motor bikes yield to no man or woman; they will swerve to avoid you rather than come to a complete stop.  Keeping this in mind, the walking time to a restaurant is always a …

Expat Intellectuals

Navigating the streets of Chiang Mai reminds me of hiking in the way that I always have to watch the ground to make sure I have proper footing. The streets here are narrow and uneven, and slope up and down at random intervals. The amount of cheap taxis makes sense once you have walked around …

Foreigners

Yesterday Billy and I met an Australian guy named Mike who has visited Chiang Mai numerous times over the last ten years. He's something of a Chiang Mai guru, so we asked him lots of questions in the back of one of the red trucks that drive people all around the city.  Billy. Have you …

Goodbye Japan

Elliott. In the future when people ask me “What’s Japan like?” I’m not sure how I’ll answer them. Billy. I’ve thought about that too. When people ask me I’m just going to say “I have no idea how to answer that question.”  Elliott. Right? The question is ridiculous in and of itself. What someone is …

Three French Hens

It’s strange when people from other countries perpetuate American stereotypes. A few days ago, three middle-aged French women moved into the hostel. They are on vacation, enjoying the many onsens Beppu has to offer. They are also loud, and one in particular, let’s say she hasn’t been skipping any meals, laughs heartily at her own …